Traditional Music on the Dingle Peninsula

by Feargal Mac Amhlaoibh

feargal-fiddle


An expression of praise for any feat in Corca Dhuibhne, the West Kerry Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking area) is “Mo cheol thú!” (You are my music!) which is in itself an indication of the indigenous place music has in the life of the area. Both instrumental music and song have a long tradition on the Dingle Peninsula.

In recent times with the increasing international interest in Irish traditional music, the area has become a mecca for traditional music lovers to the extent that many roving musicians have come to settle in the area and have blended their talents with those of the local native musicians.

For many years the music tradition of the area concentrated on the dance tunes played for the West Kerry Set Dance – mainly “polkas”, slides (single jigs), and sometimes hornpipes. The polka set, as it is commonly known, shares its music with the Sliabh Luachra area of North Kerry and with parts of Limerick where polka sets are also the traditional dances. There are many “local” polkas and slides which have now become an integral part of the tradition, notably those which were played by Muiris Ó Dálaigh (1910-1990) of Dún Chaoin and of Blasket Island stock, among many others who have passed on, such as Seán Coughlan and Tomás Mac Gearailt. Many of these tunes now form part of a collection of polkas, slides, and slow airs published by Feargal Mac Amhlaoibh and Con Durham in the now out-of-print
An Pota Stóir (1994).

The Kerry Polka has now reached the international stage with the famous duo performances of Séamus Begley and Steve Cooney, later replaced by Jim Murray, but it was Cooney who brought the distinctive beat of the polka to a new level of performance. And there are many other local musicians carrying on this tradition in their native area, such as Maidhc Dainín Ó Sé, Breandán Begley, Tommy Ó Connor, Micheál Herlihy, John Benny Moriarty, Áine Uí Laoithe. Maurice McKenna, Pádraig Ó Sé, Michelle Curran-Uí Shé. All of the above musicians are box-players (button accordion) as this had generally become to be regarded as the main musical instrument of the area since its introduction from Italy via America through returned Irish emigrant musicians in the early years of the 20th century.

Prior to then, The harp, Ireland’s national symbol, was the main instrument with the war pipes being popular for outdoor performance. Following these the uilleann pipes, fiddle, and flute were the only instruments being used by local musicians, as evidenced in the writings and collected tunes of James Goodman, himself a piper and flutist, and Captain Francis O’Neill, chief of police in Chicago at the beginning of the 20th century. While the fiddle continued in a secondary role to “the box”, the uilleann pipes and flute all but disappeared from the area. A new generation of musicians is presently blooming in the area, playing a variety of instruments including fiddle, flute, whistle, guitar, box, bodhrán, concertina, and even banjo!.

Until the introduction of restrictions by the Dublin government in recent times, a blanket smoking ban and strictly enforced drink-driving laws, the pub was the usual place where sessions of music and song could be experienced by the visitor. As a result, there has been a move to return to earlier days when sessions were held in private houses and in various other venues throughout the area.

Some formal music sessions or gigs still continue in Dingle on most evenings, notably at An Droichead Beag (The Small Bridge), Flaherty’s, and at John Benny Moriarty’s. Most gigs will welcome visiting musicians who wish to join them, but as any musician familiar with the traditional scene will appreciate, this should be “played by ear”! More formal evenings of excellent music and song are presented in St James’ Church on Wednesdays.
   
   
This article is Copyright © 2009, by Feargal Mac Amhlaoibh