Packing for an
Irish trip
It's always hard to know how to pack for an strange
country and a different climate. I hope these notes
will help you with your planning, whether or not you'll
be traveling with me.
Always keep in mind that even though there are "good
weather windows" in Ireland (May and September), the
Irish weather will do as it will whenever it wills. If
you are going to be spending time out of doors (as you
will on a Celtic Traveler trip) you should plan ahead
for (1) rain and generally damp conditions, and (2)
cool breezes off the North Atlantic.
Ireland is a temperate country where the temperature
seldom falls below 40° (F) in winter, nor floats far
above 65° or 70° in summer. Of course, the weather
while we are in Ireland will be “variable,” but will
most likely be balmy, sunny for the most part, and with
temperatures seldom going lower than the 50s. This
potential for excellent weather is why I choose the
times I do for my trips. Many of my May guests have
experienced mild sun-burn, and we often need no more
than a short-sleeved shirt. But Ireland can be cool and
damp at any time of the year, especially when the
on-shore wind whips in over the cliffs from the
Atlantic and you should therefore go prepared.
You should plan to take along, or buy on arrival, at
least one warm sweater (called a jumper in Ireland) and
some kind of waterproof outer garment. Protection
against wind and rain will be an important comfort
factor. A cap or hat of some kind is also a good idea.
Wool is probably the best bet. A light scarf wouldn’t
be out of order, either. If your hands are susceptible
to cold you may want to take along a pair of
lightweight gloves. Some travelers find that
inexpensive hooded sweatshirts are excellent for
all-around wear, either alone or under a windbreaker.
My personal favorite coat for Ireland used to be a
waxed cotton “gamekeeper’s coat” with attached hood.
These coats are excellent all-purpose travel garments,
but in my years of experience with them I have learned
that while water resistant, they are not waterproof,
and once soaked they take forever to dry. I have
therefore changed over to Gore-Tex outerwear. My
personal favorites are the lightweight packable parkas
and jackets from L. L. Bean (1-800-123-4567). Avoid
waterproof clothing that doesn’t breathe, since it will
trap perspiration. I usually take along a
much-traveled, heavy, native Irish wool sweater,
long-sleeved and long-waisted in the traditional Irish
“fisherman” style. To some people taking a jumper to
Ireland is like carrying coals to Newcastle, and an
Irish sweater is certainly an excellent keepsake from
your trip. They are widely available in Dingle and
elsewhere.
For headgear, a wool beret is compact and very
practical. The traditional Irish wool cap is an
excellent choice, too, and is available almost
everywhere in Éire. The simple American baseball cap is
also a good choice. If your ears are sensitive to wind
a knit cap that can be pulled down over them is
advisable.
Your footgear is extremely important. It should be
comfortable and well broken in. (Never travel with a
brand new pair of shoes or boots, of course!) I
recommend a pair of medium-duty hikers of which there
are dozens of styles and manufacturers. They should be
as waterproof as possible.
I wouldn't even think of going to Ireland or Scotland
without a pair of waterproof shoes or boots.
Half-height (6" or so) walking shoes or lightweight
walking boots are probably the best all-purpose
solution to Irish conditions. I have such a pair that I
have worn for years. They keep me dry, and when lightly
polished they can pass almost anywhere for "decent
attire."
The whole question of "decent attire" needs to be
addressed. Ireland is, for the most part, and
especially in the west country, an informal and largely
fashion-indifferent country. The two rules are: 'Wear
what you want', and 'Be comfortable.' Ladies in slacks
are even acceptable in church these days. Fretting
overmuch over what you can and can't get away with re
clothing in Ireland is largely a waste of time. Most
Irish don't do it and neither should you.
To summarize, here's what I think you will definitely
want to take...
A waterproof windbreaker, with hood. These are
available almost everywhere. In my opinion, L.L. Bean
has some of the best. I have one of their hip-length,
hooded, GoreTex jackets that is a must-go for me. In
general, I prefer the real thing when it comes to
"GoreTex" since I have found that the imitations are
seldom as comfortable, dry, and no-sweat as the real
thing. (No, I do not own any GoreTex stock. I should
though!) GoreTex is indeed our friend!
That applies to footgear, too, as noted above. One
thing to keep in mind: do not buy a pair of fancy new
hikers just before the trip and expect to break them in
"over there." That's a recipe for disaster. Get your
footgear in order well in advance. Break in new boots
here, not there. Be sure they are at least on their way
to being Old Friends before you set foot on Ireland's
green and moist turf. Doubt me at your peril— or at
least at the peril of your poor feet. Comfy socks, too,
at least two pair.
A scarf is nice to have, as is a pair of lightweight
gloves for those mornings when the air is not really
outright cold, but just 'fair nippish.' Broad-brimmed
hats can be a nuisance on the very breezy Atlantic
coast, and I recommend one of America's greatest
contributions to western civilization: a baseball cap.
A wool beret is also excellent, or a wool (or even
acrylic) watch-cap. I usually bring a baseball cap of
some description and a watch cap made of soft, warm,
non-static baby alpaca that I bought at the woolen mill
on Inis Meáin (the middle Aran Island) several years
ago. You can even wear the watch-cap over the baseball
cap and have a sun-bill plus a cover for your ears. The
best of all possible worlds!
I travel with two pieces of luggage. My carry on is a
small ruckack in which I tote some snacks, my laptop,
my cameras, my reading material, and enough emergency
gear to get me through if the airlines happen to lose
or misplace my checked bag. (They've only done that
once in the years I have been going to Ireland— and
when they did they had it delivered by taxi at their
expense the next day!)The checked bag is a small,
sturdy rolling case that at home could be a carry on,
but is a trifle large for an iternational flight. (It
measures 10X14x23", and has a zipper "extension" that
makes it 12x14x23". I try to use the zipper "biggifier"
only on the retrun trip, and only if really needed.)
This bag carries everything I need for a trip of any
length.
In the rolling case I pack... four sets of lightweight,
quick drying underwear; three quick-drying long-sleeved
shirts; three pair of socks; one pair of trousers (not
jeans: they are too bulky and do not dry fast enough to
be useful); one necktie, just in case; one pair of
lightweight slippers, mocassins, or "inside shoes,";
one pair of medium-weight sweatpants; two cotton
bandannas; whatever toiletries I did not pack in the
rucksack; a small clothesline and a few clothespins; a
packet of Woolite for washing out the quick-drying
clothing; whatever electronics, like chargers, etc., I
might need— including plug adaptors; whatever I think I
might need that would cause a hassle during the
security check, like picnic utensils, scissors, or the
like. Depending on how the avaliable space is breaking
out, I carry a pair of GoreTex rain pants (mine are
German army surplus) in either the checked bag or the
carry-on. They fold down compactly and I consider them
essential, although I must admit I don't have to use
them on every trip.
Don't forget a notebook and some pens and/or pencils,
depending on your preference. You'll want to make daily
notes of what you visit. You will not remember the
names or the locations after a year or so and the
travel diary will give you years of pleasurable
memories. Don't leave home without it!
Don't be tempted to exchange money in a US airport.
You'll be gouged. There are bank offices at Shannon,
and we can always stop in An Daingean on the way
through where there is an Allied Irish Bank and a Bank
of Ireland, both with cash-points (ATMs in Ameri-speak)
for your stateside bankcard. If you get caught short a
few quid I will always have enough to get you through
until we can get you to a bank. No worries. Travelers'
checks are accepted almost everywhere and American Visa
and MC (and AmEx most often) are welcome absolutely
everywhere— except at most pubs and B&Bs. You'll
get the best value for your money by using your credit
cards whenever possible. Be sure they charge you in
Euro and do not make the exchange at point-of-purchse.
Your card company gets a much better exchange rate than
you can.
I hope these brief notes help you with your planning
for your Irish trip, whether it will be with me or on
your own. Choosing the right stuff to take— and no
more— is part of the pleasure of a successful trip.
A few other suggestions...
• You may wish to take along a ziplock of Woolite or
similar cold water detergent in order to rinse out some
of your clothing. Such a procedure would allow you to
take fewer clothes. There are laundromats in the area,
but I take some Woolite and a few small clothespins.
• Some kind of lip balm and/or hand cream can be
useful, since the wind can be very drying.
• Electrical current in Ireland (the “mains”) is
210/220, and if you plan to take along anything
electrical you will need a converter and a plug adaptor
. Franzus makes excellent converter kits, and they are
also available at Radio Shack.
• Irish B&Bs do not provide washcloths, usually
called “facecloths” there. Bring a couple of your own.
• Ziplock bags are very useful, especially for
photographers. They come in various sizes. Bring a few.
Also, the smaller garbage bag liners can be lifesavers
for various packing chores and can also be pulled down
over a camera on a tripod in a sudden rain squall,
which are not entirely unknown in Ireland!
• If you are one of those still using "traditional"
photo materials, be sure to take enough film with you.
It’s expensive there and can sometimes be of
questionable age. Much better to take more film than
you think you will need and freeze any leftovers when
you get home. You will ease your passage through the
security stations if you remove the film from its
packaging and carry it in one of those handy one-gallon
Ziplocks. Hand it to the attendant at the X-ray machine
and they will manually inspect it. (I have tested the
machines at JFK and Shannon and never had a problem
with films as fast as ISO 400, but I still prefer not
to take chances.) Don't forget to bring spare batteries
of the types you use. Bring your camera's owner's
manual, too. For digital photographers, bring a couple
of extra memory cards or the necessary cords for
tranferring your images to your laptop, if you travel
with one. Don't forget your charger! You'll probably
need a plug adaptor for the Irish mains, but most
modern chargers are 110/220 and auto-switching, so you
won't need a converter. Check your manual to be sure of
that.
May your packing and planning for Éire be as pleasant
as the memories you're sure to bring back!
